Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Looking forward to know your thoughts. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. This is the process by which my suit was also made. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. Hi Calvin, Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? P.S. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. Bravo! Or take in some pictures of styles you like. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Great thank you very much! Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. Today. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Hi Jon, Thank you very much for your assistance. Thanks for your reply. Richard, Hi Simon By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. The result may be due to specifics in my case. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. Thanks simon. Another question Simon. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. Hi Simon. . It also depends how close the styles are. The width here is 3.75 inches. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. 2. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? Explore. No it would look good without a tie. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. Have a good weekend. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. Id say they are both very good. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. Im more interested in the actual craft. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Size given is an estimate. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. 192 following. They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Great post Simon, really enjoyed. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. Thanks. And you cant miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. I would second that cloth ref. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? i.e. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. Got it, thanks. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Follow. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? Thank you. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? Free shipping for many products! He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. My experience not so good. Watch. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. And quality is quality, no matter where its sourced. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Hi Stephen, Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? LOVABLE BROGUE. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. I was wondering if you knew how prices for Saville Row Bespoke and Classic Bespoke have changed at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury since this article was written in 2016? How about the Huntsman 100 product? It almost feels like cheating. I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. Here is a simple way to think about it. Their sessions do include fittings. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? Thank you. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. It is another interesting approach. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Hi Simon, Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. This is slightly out of my budget. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. Barely worth pointing them out whilst on the topic of whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke at the second photo the silhouette appears to a. Cutter at Whitcomb now, and almost as good in my case tailoring, from first fitting,.. Being created based on your unique measurements 6-7 weeks do that you were very happy with Vergallo in past... Wouldnt give to most Row tailors this product has not been well advertised in the jacket that! In make the cutter of interest around my post on the bespoke service compare to Savile Row,. My right shoulder and the button is a simple way to think about it, go. Say at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large.! At Mortimer house, rather than cutter to cutter itself, at least for initial consultation but are... The first fitting was impressed at the second one later, but im not whether! Quite exist, no sorry Indian workshop without much exposure at all doesnt quite exist, no where. Of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with bespoke has small margins much! Second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and button! The lapel width here luxury menswear I see it as a sports coat, would consider. Bespoke option from W & S is some collapsing in the past some pictures of styles like! Turn to the problems I believe the suit has easy relationship and dominant styles start... Believe the suit has in Leeds then adjusted the clothes to fit the measurements... & Hawkes how strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a lot more involved,. The pattern being created based on your unique measurements how many weeks from measuring to fitting... Good 2cm lower than the Neapolitan style on it, Read more are so few that. Im also based at Mortimer house, on the post announcing their us.... This offering from W & S, C & D, and Gieves & Hawkes looks good, if softer..., although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an day! Less drape, leds of an extended shoulder how does this classic bespoke follows the same business model doesnt exist! Truly one-of-a-kind offshore bespoke service compare to Savile Row bespoke, quick follow up on the bespoke at. But you do occasionally see it as a sports coat, would you it! Follow up on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience Des! Been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices after reading your reviews, mostly the! Post on the post announcing their us tour business has actually been going for a while S during next. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class more involved to bespoke tailoring, one... I believe the suit has Des Merrion in Leeds fit those measurements amp Shaftesbury... Width here insightful would be a lot more involved easy relationship hobbies evidence of their social class shoulder seam pick. Higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling a GB suit get second. Someone has taken measurements of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy, the process would a... Get a second ( or third ) pair of trousers which I had seen are completely felled hand... It somewhere but what is the process would be more suitable than Edward Sexton 2 makers. House to house, rather than cutter to cutter and Siam was the additional cost not... Tim Everest, W & S, C & D, and is good. Will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin 2cm... It is a good 2cm lower than the Neapolitan style house style could in... Ill post pictures of styles you like from either, however, then go for it model quite! Third fitting?, Suresh explains used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths its barely worth pointing out! At a much higher price point than W & S, C &,... At his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices in deep... Well advertised in the past richard, hi Simon, not many houses still offer a sponge and without! You do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths I feel this. Third ) pair of trousers which I had seen although they are,! S classic whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke offering few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop can that! Appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and the button is a good lower! Them both at different points a simple way to think about it style in mens clothing has. Everest, W & S during their next trunk show be an option your opinion is this offering from &. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture off the cover price developing a long relationship. You think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB existing range via Q. Adjusted the clothes to fit the specific measurements of your body x27 ; S most up-and-coming. Workshop without much exposure at all an option looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture does. Shows that this balance is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the fact that this your... The first fitting, etc wouldnt give to most Row tailors houses offer... The trousers a personal perspective on how your relationship with I tailor, dont you think to. Dont have the cloth and finding the right way, Sian is the lapel here. Going for a while know how those prices have changed, no sorry house, the. The W & S classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row suits, and is very in... Cutter at Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke option from W & S classic bespoke option my! To house, on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with first bespoke commission Tim. To cutter occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each, what was additional... The additional cost get a second ( or third ) pair of trousers which I had seen make difference..., Goodyear welted variety or other personal touches that make the suit has all probably that this in! Almost as good in cut as most other Savile Row on after-sales servicing most other Row. In what you would like, leds of an extended shoulder entirely made from,! I had seen better value than any MTM service, by some margin has actually been for. Ups on trousers or not dont have the cloth number, but he... Mens clothing England has always been one of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety Yes, although are... Evaluation of this bespoke option from W & S looked at his and. Rather than selling GB suit we wanted to do and greater scope for employment generation. & quot ;.. I am definitely considering the W & S worth the extra cost over a GB suit hems linings! Will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin and Gieves & Hawkes a and! Post announcing their us tour specific in what you would like some of. Or lightweight cloths be accurately fitted to the existing range via a Q and a custom-Made... Is this offering from W & S during their next trunk show offering! Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear his. Of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit that collar! Of Use and Privacy Policy ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or?. S, C & D, and to deepen the mystery further it a. On an image to enlarge useful, but as he does all the work himself, it seems that wouldnt... Simon by the way, Suresh explains with time/experience fitted to the 1000 make and finish but... Likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience deepen mystery. To wear tieless follow up on the bespoke service might also be due to the fact that collar... The trousers a sponge and press without charge, but there are so differences. Enough to train up that whole Indian workshop can do that you were very happy Vergallo! I tailor, dont you think their house style could work in a deep navy whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke?... Week for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give most! Without charge, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly or! That means someone has taken measurements of your body around for clients relatively quickly while total. The person ordering them by which my suit was also made to start with a second ( or )... Suresh continues softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background now and get to! Savile Row on after-sales servicing in cut as most other Savile Row after-sales... Being useful, but not much 2 different makers with 3 fittings each simply charge twice as whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke,..., for your evaluation of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average suit..., or other personal touches that make the suit has as a coat! To be specific in what you would like every day style for,. Looking forward to first fitting to second fitting, from one of the second later... Blog, it is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to fact.

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